As a skin scientist, I always try and keep my finger on the pulse of new trends and terms arising in the beauty industry. Recently, the term ‘Sensiti-ageing’ has popped up and piqued my interest. Let’s unpack the meaning of this term, how to treat it, and what products to incorporate into a routine if you’re experiencing ‘Sensiti-ageing’.
What is sensiti-ageing?
The term relates to sensitive skins that are also concerned with signs of ageing. It’s a new category and a very common combination of skin conditions that shows signs of both sensitivity and ageing. The number of individuals who perceive their skin as sensitive and easily irritated has been steadily on the rise over recent years. Over the past 18 months we have seen a huge increase in the number of people experiencing signs of sensitivity on their skin due to COVID-19, elevated stress levels and the increase in daily mask wearing.
How can we treat sensiti-ageing skin?
Treatment can sometimes incorporate potent anti-ageing ingredients for a sensitive skin. This is due to their impaired outer barrier and an inability to tolerate certain ingredients, including many retinoids, AHAs and L-ascorbic acid, all of which can significantly reduce the signs of ageing. The root cause of nearly every negative skin condition comes down to one factor: inflammation! Inflammation can come from within the body or the environment, and both can impact the skin and lead to irritation and sensitivity. We know sensitive skin types often experience compromised barrier function, which appears as redness, flaking, or dryness. The inflammation associated with barrier breakdown is often referred to as inflam-ageing, which is closely related to this new buzz term ‘sensiti-ageing’. Skin professionals treat sensitivity as the priority and then address the secondary concern of acne, pigmentation, or skin ageing with the correct clinical treatments and homecare plans. It is no different to how we cosmetic chemists should develop our formulations. I always ensure those with sensitive skin have products that can support their secondary skin concerns - in this case, ageing. So, here is my recommended skincare routine to address both sensitivity and skin ageing:
The sensiti-ageing routine
1. Cleanse:
Thoroughly clean your face morning and night with a pH balanced SLS-free cleanser such as BioCleanse to remove the excess oil and debris built up on the skin’s surface.
2. Balance the skin:
On a freshly cleansed face, apply a few drops of a balancing serum such as Dermiotic, morning and night. The probiotic lysate, together with the prebiotic skin nutrition, restores the skin’s balance of bacteria, helping to prevent the triggers of skin irritation and inflammation.
3. Active serums:
This is where we need to be very careful with our potent active ingredients. Our Vitamin B Serum is the hero in this case and can used in this routine morning and night. I always say ‘B is for Barrier’, and this serum is the true barrier strengthener. It will help to restore the barrier on many levels, preventing dryness and boosting collagen to reduce the appearance of ageing, all while controlling excess oil production. As a true multitasker, niacinamide will also boost the immunity of the skin and reduce inflammation. Luciderm serum is also a great option for sensitive skin types needing to exfoliate and brighten the skin without irritating acids. This formula activates our skin enzymes to slough away dead skin cells to reveal a smoother more youthful surface.
4. Moisturisers:
In the place of your morning and nightly moisturizer, incorporate our latest facial oil, LumiBalance. This multi-active facial oil will target both sensitive skin and premature ageing. It specifically works to promote barrier function by increasing vital barrier lipids while deeply moisturising the skin and reducing inflammation. It is also the perfect alternative to using retinoids, as many individuals with sensitive skin always steer clear of vitamin A on their skin. Bakuchiol is natures gentle alternative to vitamin A with its ability to stimulate collagen production, prevent breakdown of collagen and elastin, and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
5. Solar protection:
In the morning, always follow with solar protection like ÜberZinc. Our 2-in-1 moisturiser is another great option to target sensiti-ageing, with physical broad spectrum solar protection. It’s your number 1 insurance policy for protection and ageing. ÜberZinc is also formulated with 21% zinc oxide, which is widely known for its anti-inflammatory properties making it ideal for sensitive skin.